Post by Snappersforum on Jul 19, 2013 23:44:29 GMT
Here is a great cheap way of using an existing lens as a macro lens - all you need to do is get yourself a reversing ring
No macro lens? No problem! Now you can get those lovely, detailed close-up shots without investing in another pricey lens. How? By converting one of your regular lenses into a macro lens with an affordable accessory: a reversing ring. It may sound strange to the uninitiated, but a reversing ring allows you to mount your lens onto your camera backwards. Somehow, (we won’t explore the physics of it here) this arrangement allows your lens to capture surprisingly impressive macro images. Photographer Mike Browne, who regularly puts out online tutorials, demonstrates this clever trick in the following video:
The only downside is that this setup disables all automatic functions, so you’ll have to adjust focus, exposure, etc. manually. Browne takes viewers step-by-step on how to shoot macro with a reversing ring. 1. Buy a reversing ring.
Make sure it matches the lens you plan to use it with (i.e. 50 mm ring for a 50 mm lens). 2. Attach the ring.
Screw the ring onto the front of your lens of choice (where filters would normally go); be careful not to do it too tightly. 3. Attach the lens.
Screw the end with the ring on it onto your camera as you would any lens. Make sure you’re in manual mode before you begin shooting. 4. Fix the aperture.
To let enough light in, you’ll have to force open the aperture lever the front of your reversed lens (the side that is normally attached to the camera). A bit of masking tape can do the trick. 5. Fine-tune your settings.
Adjust your exposure and fine-tune your focus using the focusing ring. To get the correct exposure, increase your shutter speed until your camera indicates that the exposure is balanced. macro shooting without a macro lens
Expert tip: If you’re using a zoom lens with your reversing ring, you can still utilize the zooming, which Browne considers to be an advantage over macro lenses. Additionally, though it might seem counter-intuitive, shooting at a lower millimeter setting allows super-macro capabilities. See below for examples.
There are lots of ways in which you can get your SLR closer to the subject, so that small areas look big in the image. The most common solution is to use a macro lens.
However, this means buying a new lens, and having another bulky thing to carry around with you, just in case.
A less expensive, and less bulky, solution is a close-up lens (also known as a close-up filter). This attaches to the front of an existing lens, and works in the same way as a magnifying glass or a pair of reading glasses.
This type of filter is available for most square filter systems (such as Cokin), but round screw types are more common.
Close-up filters are available in different strengths, measured in diopters. The higher the number, the higher the magnification, and the closer the minimum focus of the lens becomes.
These lenses are often sold in sets with a +1, +2 and +4 diopter lens in a convenient carry case. Two or more filters can be combined to increase magnification – you just add the diopter values together to get the resulting magnification (a +2 filter used with a +4 diopter gives you a +6 diopter set-up, for example).
The optical quality of these filters is not as high as a macro lens – you tend to get more softening at the edges and more colour fringing.
However, they are more than capable of giving you a different view of a miniature world. They can provide record shots of stamps, coins and jewellery, for instance – but can be used for artistic shots that show texture and detail that more distant shots fail to show.
With a close-up filter, your focusing range becomes very limited (you can no longer focus on distant subjects). However, you can still use autofocus, and as there is no light loss, automatic exposure also works perfectly.